Brad & Cindy Worthington-White

You are on the Modifications page

The first thing I need to do here is thank all of the great people that Cindy and I have been fortunate enough to chat with or better yet meet in person from Focus Fanatics. If you own a Focus I highly recommend this site as a resource for answers to the simplest questions to the most technical.

Performance Modifications

Part	Modification	Manufacturer	Picture	Notes
Engine	Performance Tune	"Tom" Focus-Power		Tom goes by 1TurboFocus on FF
TB	Short Ram Cold Air Intake	SteedaFocus		Leave the insert installed unless you have a tune or you will get a CEL as you will be running way to lean.
TB	Throttle Body Ground	Me		Grounding the throttle body can improve throttle response on "fly-by-wire" vehicles Instructions in "How To" section
Exhaust	Race Header	F2USA		This header comes with three (3) "bungs" installed which, for 08' owners, allows the installation of a A/F monitor without having to add one.
Exhaust	2.5" Stainless Steel exhaust	TruBendz		TruBendz 2.5" SS with MagnaFlow muffler and MagnaFlow high flow cat
TB	Intake Spacer	SteedaFocus		Per Steeda: "Made from Billet 6061 aluminum it is designed to give you more plenum volume for increased horsepower. The swirl design helps promote airflow by breaking the surface tension of the incoming air. An increase of horsepower and fuel mileage can be seen with this part."
Electrical	Hyper Ground	SunAutomobile		You can make your own ground kit for a lot less.
Electrical	Hyper Voltage	SunAutomobile		Per SunAutomobile: "The new Hyper Voltage GT System is designed to stabilize voltage in your vehicle for maximum battery efficiency, allowing its full potential to be released. "
TB	Air Scoop	Me		I have a 22" scoop behind the lower grille which routes air into the CAI.

Suspension Modifications

Part	Modification	Manufacturer	Picture	Notes
Shock Absorbers	H&R Street Performance Coil-Overs	H&R Springs		Very Nice, but they are not cheap.
Sway Bars	Eibach sway bars	Eibach		Front: 22mm Rear: 25mm
Front End Links	PowerGrid adjustable front end links	Powergridinc		Per Powergrid: "The stabilizer-bar has been overlooked as a tunable component in the production-based suspension system due to the lack of an adjustable link. The OEMs recognize that it is important to have a sway bar for cornering stability. It is installed in the suspension system and sent down the assembly line. From personal investigations, the sway bar with fixed length links can induce a load into any two cross-corners of your vehicle. The ability to neutralize the sway bar in your suspension system is a great advantage to baseline, balance, and refines your vehicle's handling characteristics"
Upper Front Strut Tower Brace	Installed	Steeda		Per Steeda: "Chassis flex is one of the main enemies of good handling. Your front tires can't stay planted if your strut towers are flexing. Put an end to front-end flex with this easy-to-install tubular strut bar. This bar ties your strut towers together, giving you less flex and therefore better handling. Powder coated in Gloss Black and made from super strong 4130 Chrome Moly tubing."
Rear Strut Tower Brace	Installed	FSWerks		If you don't have this bar - get one! This bar made a huge difference in ride quality for me.
Front cross member brace	Installed	HTPerformance		Oh yeah, what can I say! Really helps tighten things up.
Transaxle Support bushings	Replaced	Hillbish Ford		You will get a little more vibration in the passenger cabin with stiffer bushings but I don't even notice it anymore.

Exterior Modifications

Part	Modification	Manufacturer	Picture	Notes
Headlight	Blacked out the in-side chrome trim	Me		You must "open" the headlights to access the trim pieces. I have instructions on how to do this on the "How to" page.
Headlight	Added blue LEDs in-side headlight	Me		This also requires the headlights to be opened.
Headlights	Nite-Shaded	Me		I wanted the nite-shades to cover the entire headlight but by the time you get the nite-shade thin enough in front of the headlight itself the nite-shade looks like crap
Taillights	Nite-Shaded	Me		My very first nite-shade job. I have done a lot of other cars since.
Windows Tint	20% tint all around	South Tacoma Glass		LOL, the car was pretty much stock at this point
Body Kit	Six piece body kit Front and Rear lip, side skirts, trunk spoiler, rear window spoiler	Kit by: 3DCarbon.com Paint: J&J Autobody Installed by: Me		Excellent kit - every piece fit perfectly. This allows you to install this kit and save some money.
Chrome Package Delete	I replaced the chrome mirror caps and chrome door handles with stock black	Me		The car came with the optional chrome package, oh well!
Grille	I nite-shaded the chrome grille	Me		I nite-shaded the front grille and the front and rear "Ford" emblem
Vendor Vent	I color matched the chrome vendor vents	Me		I removed and air-brushed the chrome vendor vents with color matched paint [Metallic Vista Blue - color code G9]
Badging	De-Badged	Me		Using dental floss and hair dryer for heat I removed the "FOCUS" and "SE" badge from the trunk
Third Brake Light	I added a third brake light flasher	ThirdBrakeLightFlasher	sorry, hard to get a "pic" of a flashing light	This $20 buck mod allows you to set your 3rd brake light to flash a certain number of times before remaining on solid.

Interior Modifications

Part	Modification	Manufacturer	Picture	Notes
Dash	Overlay	Made by BITrim.com Purchased from:SFXperformance		Very nice kit, every piece fit perfectly
Shifter	Short Throw Shift Kit	F2USA		F2USA is currently not producing any more of these kits. There's a knock of on E-Bay but the quality can be hit or miss.
Shifter	Saleen weighted shift knob	Focus Fanatics		It comes without screws in the top holes - I went to Home-Depot and got black hex screws to go into mine - some people like the knob better without screws - go figure.
Dash	AutoMeter Gauges	AutoMeter (purchased on E-Bay)		Air / Fuel Ratio Monitor Volt Meter (shown) Water Temp
Trunk	Organizer	3D Carbon		There are three main pockets, two web side pockets and it even came with a first-aid kit. Great for keeping the GPS and other stuff out of the center console.
Cabin	Peddle Covers	JEGS		I would like to replace these with another set I've seen that has the three pedal covers and matching foot rest and heel plates.
Cabin	Dome Light	Me		These LEDs are available with 3 or 5 LEDs in each one (mine have 5).
Cabin	Cold Cathode Lighting	Me		There are two (2) 12" CCLs under the dash and (2) 4" CCLs under each seat
Cabin	Light Controller	Me		StreetGlow Music Interface - I highly recommend this controller if you want your lights to respond to the music. The cheap controllers sold at the sites that sell the lights will burn up on you (smoke no good). This interface uses "distribution blocks". Each block can have four sets of CCLs connected to it. You can have 4 blocks per controller. Just run one wire from each block back to the controller, makes wiring the lights a lot easier.

I.C.E. (In Car Entertainment) Upgrades

I am using the factory head unit (FHU) and do not plan on replacing it (at this point). There are no RCA jacks on the FHU so we tapped into the wiring harness for input to the main amp (thanks for that idea Michael, I'd probably still be wiring this if it wasn't for his help). The sub-woofer amp input is received via the pre-outs on the main amp.

Door Speakers, replaced all four JVC Arsenal CS-AR680

5" x 7" 2-way speakers

glass fiber and PMI (polymethacrylimide) woofer with butyl rubber surround

1" titanium dome tweeter with silk edges

in-line 2-way crossover with 2-level tweeter control (0, +3 dB)

4-ohm impedance

2-60 watts RMS power range (180 watts peak)

frequency response: 50-30,000 Hz

sensitivity: 87 dB

depth: 2-7/16"

added a sub-woofer Sound Ordnance B-8P

powered bandpass sub-woofer

8" woofer

built-in 80 watts RMS amplifier (160 watts maximum)

acrylic front window

frequency response: 46-150 Hz

variable low-pass crossover (70-200 Hz)

variable phase control (0-180°)

preamp- and speaker-level inputs

8- or 10-gauge wiring (not included) recommended

dimensions: 14-7/8"W x 11-1/8"H x 14-7/8"D1 x 10-1/8"D

replaced sub-woofer speaker JBL GTO804

The sub-woofer wasn't bad, but after I added my second amp. (see below) I knew I could do better.

The budget was limited so I found this on Craigslist. I kept the Sound Ordnance box but replaced the speaker with this one.

8" 4-ohm sub-woofer

polypropylene cone with Hi-roll rubber surround

power range: 50-200 RMS watts (800 watts peak power)

frequency response: 30-400 Hz

sensitivity: 91 dB

mounting depth: 4-3/8"

replaced the tweeters in front door speakers
Pioneer TS-T110

Luckily my door speakers allowed me to disconnect their tweeters at the cross-over and connect these. I mounted these satellite tweeters in the "A" pillar so the sound reflects off the windshield. Small change - huge difference in the sound stage!

sensitivity 90 dB

4-ohm impedance

frequency response 2,500-30,000 Hz

recommended power range 2-40 watts RMS

peak power handling 120 watts

2-5/16" diameter

15/16" flush-mount depth

Amplifier (door speakers) JVC Arsenal KS-AR7004

This amp handles the door speakers.

4-channel car amplifier

100 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (140 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)

200 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)

frequency response: 5-50K Hz

variable high- and low-pass filters (30-500 Hz, 18 dB/octave)

variable bass boost (0-18 dB at 45 Hz)

subsonic filter (20 Hz)

Class-AB amplifier design

MOSFET power and output stages

preamp- and speaker-level inputs

preamp outputs

fuse rating: 40A x 2

4-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier

15-11/16"W x 2-3/8"H x 11-5/16"D

Amplifier
(Sub-Woofer) JVC Arsenal KS-AR7002

This amp pushes the sub-woofer, and I am running it bridged.

This was another Craigslist purchase by the way. It was advertised as brand new and for $150. Well, it was brand new but they only got $100.

2-channel car amplifier

150 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (230 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms)

300 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)

frequency response: 5 to 50,000 Hz

variable high- and low-pass filters (30-500 Hz, 18 dB/octave)

variable bass boost (0-18 dB at 45 Hz)

subsonic filter (20 Hz)

Class-AB amplifier design

MOSFET power and output stages

preamp- and speaker-level inputs

preamp outputs

fuse rating: 40A x 2

4-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier

15-11/16"W x 2-3/8"H x 11-5/16"D

Door Speakers, replaced all four		JVC Arsenal CS-AR680 5" x 7" 2-way speakers glass fiber and PMI (polymethacrylimide) woofer with butyl rubber surround 1" titanium dome tweeter with silk edges in-line 2-way crossover with 2-level tweeter control (0, +3 dB) 4-ohm impedance 2-60 watts RMS power range (180 watts peak) frequency response: 50-30,000 Hz sensitivity: 87 dB depth: 2-7/16"
added a sub-woofer		Sound Ordnance B-8P powered bandpass sub-woofer 8" woofer built-in 80 watts RMS amplifier (160 watts maximum) acrylic front window frequency response: 46-150 Hz variable low-pass crossover (70-200 Hz) variable phase control (0-180°) preamp- and speaker-level inputs 8- or 10-gauge wiring (not included) recommended dimensions: 14-7/8"W x 11-1/8"H x 14-7/8"D1 x 10-1/8"D
replaced sub-woofer speaker		JBL GTO804 The sub-woofer wasn't bad, but after I added my second amp. (see below) I knew I could do better. The budget was limited so I found this on Craigslist. I kept the Sound Ordnance box but replaced the speaker with this one. 8" 4-ohm sub-woofer polypropylene cone with Hi-roll rubber surround power range: 50-200 RMS watts (800 watts peak power) frequency response: 30-400 Hz sensitivity: 91 dB mounting depth: 4-3/8"
replaced the tweeters in front door speakers		Pioneer TS-T110 Luckily my door speakers allowed me to disconnect their tweeters at the cross-over and connect these. I mounted these satellite tweeters in the "A" pillar so the sound reflects off the windshield. Small change - huge difference in the sound stage! sensitivity 90 dB 4-ohm impedance frequency response 2,500-30,000 Hz recommended power range 2-40 watts RMS peak power handling 120 watts 2-5/16" diameter 15/16" flush-mount depth
Amplifier (door speakers)		JVC Arsenal KS-AR7004 This amp handles the door speakers. 4-channel car amplifier 100 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (140 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms) 200 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode) frequency response: 5-50K Hz variable high- and low-pass filters (30-500 Hz, 18 dB/octave) variable bass boost (0-18 dB at 45 Hz) subsonic filter (20 Hz) Class-AB amplifier design MOSFET power and output stages preamp- and speaker-level inputs preamp outputs fuse rating: 40A x 2 4-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier 15-11/16"W x 2-3/8"H x 11-5/16"D
Amplifier (Sub-Woofer)		JVC Arsenal KS-AR7002 This amp pushes the sub-woofer, and I am running it bridged. This was another Craigslist purchase by the way. It was advertised as brand new and for $150. Well, it was brand new but they only got $100. 2-channel car amplifier 150 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (230 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms) 300 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode) frequency response: 5 to 50,000 Hz variable high- and low-pass filters (30-500 Hz, 18 dB/octave) variable bass boost (0-18 dB at 45 Hz) subsonic filter (20 Hz) Class-AB amplifier design MOSFET power and output stages preamp- and speaker-level inputs preamp outputs fuse rating: 40A x 2 4-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier 15-11/16"W x 2-3/8"H x 11-5/16"D